ERP IG9998 Universal Gas Range Oven Igniter

If your oven isn't heating up properly, start by replacing the ignitor. I have a 3-year-old Beko Professional range/oven and ti wasn't heating up properly. I could see the flame starting up below the heat shield, but thought that the issue was somewhere else because of various other symptoms. After two months of buying, testing, and diagnosing fans, circuit boards, and other components, I went back to the ignitor and it solved the problem. Took all of 5 min to install. I've also installed this same product in a KitchenAid oven and experienced no issues. The manufacturer suggested their branded part that was over $110, at 1/10th this one is exactly the same and works as intended.

So far the igniter is working well. Installation was simple and while the unit it was replacing only has one tab for installation on the right side of the burner, the ERP IG9998 has mounting tabs on both sides. Depending on the oven, the unused tab may get in the way of installation, in which case, you can simply bend the unused tab out of the way.Installation is quite simple:First unplug the oven; most Kenmore and other similar ovens connect a relay to the neutral line instead of the hot line, thus even when not heating, one line going to the igniter is live at all times when the oven is plugged in.On the old igniter that you want to replace, cut the wire close to the old igniter. After that strip the insulation of the wire about 7mm. On the ERP IG9998, if the pre-stripped wire is not stripped enough (my unit only had around 4mm of the wire stripped), then strip off some additional insulation.After the wires for both ends are properly stripped, twist them together (clockwise), and then twist on the ceramic wire nut as well. Once you have confirmed that it is on firmly, repeat the same process with the other wire.After that, tuck all excess wire below the heating platform, the area near the gas safety valve of the oven remains cool during normal use, thus is a good place to fold all excess wire near.Igniters fail over time, and the failure mode is a gradually increasing resistance. Due to the way that gas safety valves are designed, an igniter that is perfectly capable of lighting a flame, as even when drawing 2 amps instead of 3.6 amps, it gets more than hot enough to ignite the gas. The problem is that the gas safety valve uses a winding of nichrome wire where when 3.3-3.6 amps flows through it, it gets hot enough to change shape enough to open a gas valve. If the resistance of the igniter increases enough that the amperage draw falls below 3.1 amps, then the nichrome wire never gets hot enough to open the gas valve fully. Gas safety values use this design because it ensures that if an electronically controlled oven loses power while running, then the valve automatically closes. Igniters would last far longer if they could make the gas safety valves to work with a minimum of 2.5 amps instead of 3.1 amps.This is also why you will notice where a failing igniter will cause your oven to take a very long time to preheat.PS, if an igniter fails to a short, it will destroy the gas safety valve, since the nichrome wires used will have a very low resistance, often 1 ohm or less, and there are no additional current limiters on the power rail, the igniter itself is effectively the current limiter, thus a short in the igniter will immediately burn out the nichrome wire.Anyway, the igniter works well for restoring normal oven functioning as well as normal preheating speed.

Great part

DO NOT BUYI wrote a review about this ERP IG9990 Igniter at least 10 years ago, recommending it as the quality was on par with the OEM version. Unfortunately ERP is now getting this part from a different manufacturer as evidenced by the build. The wires are no longer potted into the insulator, which means anyone installing these will need to pay attention and insure there is no strain on the wires as it is easy to cause separation.I won't speculate on why the change as I'm sure most of you can read the writing on the wallUpdate 10/17/24These hot surface igniters are now garbage.Though just recently installed the internal resistance varies from unit to unit.This is important as the amount of current that passes through the igniter is what opens the gas valve(s).I have two on my oven, one unit works normally, the other is only opening half way.As I predicted when I saw the build on these; ERP has found a new Chinese supplier which translates to lower cost to them and a bad experience for the consumer

Stove is back up and working

On time and as ordered.

Seems to be working fine on hard to find parts for a Forte. Just had to remove the old connections and put them on the new one.

Purchased to replace a weak igniter in my ~20 year old KitchenAid Superba. TBH I didn’t know if the igniter was even the problem. For a few months I was able to fool myself into thinking the oven would work if I just turned the range on during the preheating stage. But then even that little trick stopped working. But money is tight and I know an oven purchase isn’t in the cards until maybe later next year.First, I inspected the igniter on receipt. I had previously ordered an igniter from Amazon for my gas furnace and it came broken, so I was nervous. But packaging was great and there were no issues. Do not touch the igniter (black) with your hands!!Then I had to pull the oven out (removing the door was a puzzle for me). I was nervous because I’m not very strong but it slid out very easily. Unplugged old igniter, cut wires and connected to new one via wire connectors I had on hand, installed, then slid the oven back in. Forgot it came with ceramic nuts so I went back and replaced with those.Tested resistance of old igniter and while it was working, it was just too weak. Turned on oven with the new igniter and just a few suspenseful seconds later I hear the WHOOSH sound! Hoping this lasts awhile!!!